Find the best way to protect dog paws in winter and antifreeze chemical on road. Learn how to wash a dogs paw after walking on snow and prevent dogs paws from cuts and wounds.
Winter is not the best time for dogs. And quite troublesome for their owners. In winter time, special care is needed to protect the paw in winter. Do this for two reasons. Firstly, claws in winter are almost not stitching in a natural way and they need to be cut off on a regular basis. Secondly, in the winter you need to closely monitor the hair that grows between the fingers. Many owners of dogs in the winter stop the hair cut, “so that the fingers of the dog did not freeze.” However, this is a completely wrong approach. If there is no hair between the fingers, nothing will prevent the dog from tightly gathering the paw “into a ball” and the fingers will not freeze. In addition, the hair between the fingers often gets ice and causes the dog to worry.
Care of the dog’s paws is very important, especially in large cities, where the number of anti-ice chemical reagents on the roads causing severe burning and itching in animals is increasing every year.
In addition, wet snow is often hammered between the fingers and pads, forming with prolonged walking icy lumps, rubbing and traumatizing the skin. The sharp edges of the ice crusts often cut their paws.
Often dogs have poisonings with antifreeze, which accumulates in large concentrations on the roadsides of roadways and in snowdrifts on the highway.
Sometimes dogs risk getting a strong electric shock due to the deterioration of the electrical insulation of the wires under wet ground.
Chemical reagents not only corrode the skin on the pads of the paws and between the fingers of the animal, they are the cause of the strongest allergic reactions, rhinitis, inflammation of the respiratory tract and eyes (especially in small dogs), they can be a source of severe poisoning after licking a dog.
Protect Dog Paws In Winter
It is necessary to combine different measures, daily taking care of the dog’s paws, so as not to lead to serious inflammation.
- Dogs with long-haired need to regularly cut hair on their paws, leaving a length of no more than 0.5 cm. On the neatly trimmed paws will be much less to stick to wet snow and there will not be beads of reagent between strands, causing cracks and ulcers.
- Do not forget once in 2-3 weeks to carefully shorten the claws, which in winter do not rub against the asphalt and prevent the dog from treading properly (especially in boots).
- If the weather is not very cold and slushy, the dirty water mixed with the reagent penetrates into the boots. Then before going out, you need to treat the paws with a protective spray that forms an impermeable film on the skin or with special waxes. You can try to smear my feet with wax, but this method also has its drawbacks. First, carefully rub all the paws, and especially, then wash them off with a thick dirty wax for quite a long time. Bad suits the morning when you hurry to work. By the way, this protection is not very long. In addition, the wax cannot be rubbed into cuts and wounds on the paws. Many lubricate their paws with petroleum jelly but do not think it’s reliable.
- Boots are necessary for any dog, but they are best protected not from chemicals, but from frostbite and dirt. Shoes must be carefully sized to prevent the animals from squeezing and discomfort when walking and running. They should not be too loose not to turn sideways, the dog can tug the paw. Inside the shoes there should be no rough protruding seams, rubbing the paws. By the way, the big drawback of shoes is that the dogs in them slip, especially on ice. There is a chance to tug the paw. It is better to look for shoes with an anti-skid rippled rubber sole and waterproof material from above. Such shoes will cost more, but buying absolutely cheap Chinese shoes does not make sense at all. Also, buying excessively expensive and fancy footwear is also pointless, you need to see (better in online stores) different options, compare the ratio of “price-quality” and choose the average option. Anyway, in this life, you will have to buy at best once a season.
- After walking, especially in very cold weather, you need to give the dog a little time to sit in the corridor, so that the paws are warmed. Then the paws must be thoroughly washed (and not wiped with a towel, otherwise, only pound the reagent deeper into the skin). Wash the paws need only strongly warm, and not hot water, otherwise, the skin may crack from the temperature drop. To wash it is very convenient in the big scoop (you hold the handle of the bucket with your left hand, and the right one thoroughly rinses the paw, probing all the spaces between the fingers to release all the stuck granules of the reagent). In the water must necessarily add protective and wound healing shampoos. It perfectly foams, washed away all the chemicals and dirt, it smells very nice with natural cloves, the coat after it is silky and does not need to be washed off, it forms a protective film on the paw.
- After you have washed the paws, you must carefully wipe them with a dry towel (which must be washed as it gets soiled every few days) and carefully inspect them (at least once a day in the evening) to quickly notice possible cuts or sores. If you find lesions on the paw skin, rinse Chlorhexidine 0.05% and apply anti-inflammatory ointment. For large lesions, the paw should be bandaged with a sterile bandage. On top put a child’s (or your) cotton sock on the paw and fix it on several levels with adhesive tape 1 cm wide, not very tight. In it, the dog will walk and at home until healing, it is impossible to sift the wounds. Otherwise, you will have to wear a protective plastic collar, but, the dogs hate them and are nervous. Rinse and lubricate the wound, change the bandage and the contaminated sock should be once a day.
- Before the next walk on top of the sock put on latex surgical waterproof glove or just a plastic bag, but it’s bad, they immediately tear, and on top of boots. It does not fit with a sock, then wear the glove directly on the paw or bandage (so that dirty and chemical water does not penetrate into the wounds), and then wear the shoes. Remember, walk with deep cuts is a war without inspection or protection.
- If the paws of the dog are less cracked and fungi or infections do not settle on them, it is necessary to lubricate washed paws with an emollient protective cream or with sea buckthorn. Still, veterinarians advise to lubricate the dog every few, it’s best to do this before going to bed so as not to run and leave no marks on the furniture.
- For inflamed paws it is useful to wash out a warm solution of a chamomile (to make a teaspoon of flowers on a glass of boiled water). Add broth with warm water and keep the damaged paw for several minutes and then clean with a dry towel.
- Well, in addition to the paws, we must take care cold and contamination. Walking is necessary only in waterproof overalls with a warm fleece lining inside. Overall you do not have to tightly cling to the animal and restrain its movement. Walking without clothes can only some large and long-haired breeds of dogs, such as husks and Laika, who are genetically able to tolerate low temperatures for a long time. Walking in the cold or the wind with small or medium dogs is irresponsible and stupid, it will be more difficult to treat such breed of dogs.
- In the cold winter, you should not get carried away with the haircut and trimming of dogs, and bathe them less often and only in case of real contamination of the wool. Wash the dog thoroughly with a cloth and dry completely with a hairdryer. Wash best after the evening walk, so that until the next exit to the front, the dog spent the night in the warmth of the house. After washing, all the windows of the house must be closed, make sure that the wet dog does not lie anywhere in the draft. It is often necessary to comb the wool from dirt and rarely have to wash.
In winter, the number of injuries in dogs during a walk increases, so it is important to protect the paw in winter. This can be explained by the fact that falling snow hides a variety of sharp objects, nails, splinters of glass or bottles, and low temperature causes a decrease in the sensitivity of the paws. Therefore, the dog, cut, does not immediately withdraw the paw, but continues to lean on it and further injuries. Low temperature causes vasoconstriction, so bleeding is not detected immediately, and often only after returning home. If you find a trauma to the pads, the wound should be treated with hydrogen peroxide. If the bleeding is severe, a pressure bandage should be applied. With very deep cuts or a large cut, the pads should be immediately consulted in the veterinary clinic.
If the treatment does not help for several days, contact the veterinarians as soon as possible.
We wish your beloved pets a good, snowy and moderately cold winter! And, of course, cheerful walks, mutual love and communication and good health!